Exploring Kauai

Cory had been planning a trip to Kauai to explore two trails and take us on one he's been to.  It was a big trip in the making and required three full days of hiking consecutively.  Easter weekend seemed like a good weekend since most of us had Good Friday off. 

The crew that Cory put together from Oahu were Katie, Will, Amanda, Garvin, Lynne, and Matt.  All of them split a room in Kapaʻa for cheap.  Katie and I stayed with her sister Jenny and Christian.  

The first hike we did was on Friday.  The group from Oahu flew in on the first flight to Kauaʻi.  We rented two jeeps since the hikes required 4wd to get to.  

By 7:30 we were off on the dirt road. We went across two streams to get to the trailhead with the vehicles.  During that time between the streams and trailhead we started having problems.  The low tire pressure gauge went off and when we arrived at the trail head we found out we had a flat tire.  We quickly changed the tire in the rain and decided to wait to fix the flat.  

The trail was really wide open.  We were making up some time but we realized that we had missed a turn somewhere fifteen minutes in.  Then we spent almost an hour lost in a bamboo jungle.  We tried to look for the easiest way through but we were met with dead end after dead end.  We decided to push through and see if we could connect with a trail.  When we did we finally linked up with the trail we were supposed to be on all this time.  We saw it was clear most of the way now and we weren't following pig trails.  The trail contoured for a really long time.  The uluhe was unrelenting to those that decided to wear shorts.  The mud was more worse than the northern KST.  Hiking through this section took a toll on the group, especially me.  We finally reached a stream (Maheo stream) to rinse off a little, or so I thought. 

Matt and I were really tired but I continued to encourage him.  I knew that we had to reach a tunnel and we'd take a break there.  But when we reached the stream it was so nice that we inadvertently took a short break.  We looked back up and the group was gone!  We wandered around for a bit but we didn't catch up to them.  We hooted and heard nothing but the stream.  We decided that the only way was up the stream so we kept going up.  We hooted and hollered again.  This time we got a hoot back.  They weren't that far ahead.  We when reached them they continued on.  After five minutes more we finally reached the tunnel we were supposed to go through.  

I was excited but drained at the same time.  I told Matt our next landmark was a dam and that was right after the tunnel, I knew we were both struggling with our hunger now but I thought it wouldn't be that much longer.  I promised him we'd take a good break soon.  We strapped on our headlamps and found out that the tunnel was way longer than expected. 

Katie did a little research after the trip and found out that the tunnel we were going through was over 6,000 ft long.  It diverts waters that was used for the sugar companies a long time ago.  Now that Kauaʻi doesn't produce sugar as much the tunnel fell into disuse, diverting thousands of gallons of water a day.  

We now were in a dark tunnel and at the end of it you could see light.  The light looked as small as a pin head.  We walked for ten minutes and the light didn't seem like it got any closer, that's how far this tunnel stretched.  After 20 minutes of hiking through the dark tunnel we reached the end.  This was not where we were supposed to be.  We backtracked a few feet and took a right in the tunnel to find out we needed to hike through the tunnel another 10 minutes.  The tunnel spit us out in another forested area.  It looked the same but from the GPS we were in Hanalei! 

We went up and over a hill and down into the Hanalei stream.  We finally took a break near the stream.  It took us about 3-4 hours to get here.  This place was beautiful.  It reminded me of Kalalau Valley and the stream that flows through it.  

We filtered water and started back on the trail again, this time on the stream bed rock hopping.  We reached the dam and usually where most people go through another tunnel.  We decided to push on up Hanalei stream to see what we could find.  It was already 1:30 and now that we were rock hopping it took a little longer to get where we needed to go.  I thought why not just go through the second tunnel and see some kind of waterfall; I suggested it to Cory but he decided to push on.  

I was glad I followed.  After forty five minutes up stream we were greeted by a big swim hole.  A lot of us didn't have dry bags so we dropped our packs and swam across.  After the big pool we saw a small waterfall spilling over the left side canyon wall and another big pool with a 15 ft healthy flowing waterfall.  The waterfall didn't look climb able so Garvin and Cory led the charge up the right side of the waterfall.  With little to no handhold Garvin found a way up.  He helped everyone up with a rope he carried.  We all made it up safely.  The next big obstacle was a fast flowing waterfall flowing through a narrow canyon.  The water accelerated through a bowl like feature in the rocks and made it impassible for most people.  Cory was ready to call it quits after I tried to swim up and try and get onto the right side where we could climb up.  I failed because the water was flowing so fast it pushed me back with a really strong current.  Garvin decided to go up on the left side and jump across.  (For those of you that are reading this, I highly suggest turning around at this point or even before scaling the waterfall before this.  It is highly likely that you could get seriously injured or swept over the waterfall and land on some nasty rocks.). 

Garvin made it across with his jump and I second.  Everyone else followed suit and we all made it across safely.  After that obstacle the hike returned back to rock hopping.  At around 2:30 we decided to turn around.  Everyone was exhausted and some of us were even cramping but we had to do everything in reverse.  

The obstacle Garvin jumped across we had to let the current take us downstream a little.  It was nerve wrecking because if you didn't grab onto a rock then the water might send you over a waterfall.  I went first and aided in safety by catching everyone flowing down stream.  The next obstacle was the waterfall.  Lynne safely down climbed with the help of Cory and Garvin but with little hand and foot holds the safest way down was to jump.  We all took turns jumping off into the deep blue pond.  After that was the long journey back to the car.  We made it out just in time before the sun went down.  

Katie and I returned back to Jenny's house and the rest of the group went back to the hotel.  Some had to get food while the other had to go and swap out the car because of the flat tire.  Tomorrow was gonna be another long day.  

Pictures were taken by: Katie and Matt.

 We rented two jeeps to get to the trail head.  Crossing the stream in the vehicles were pretty fun. 

The tunnel was scary if we didn't have our flash lights.  It's over 6,000 ft long!

After the tunnel we were near the heart of Hanalei stream.  This man made spill way was pretty cool.

We left our packs at the beginning of the pool.  Only bagged items and our selves could journey on.

Immediately after we were confronted with another deep pool and healthy flowing waterfall.  We needed to figure out a way up the canyon walls safely. 

Garvin led the climb up the right side of the pool.  The holds were far and few and extremely slippery.  I tested out a route closer to the falls. 

Lynne carefully hiked near the fast flowing stream. 

I helped people across the stream.  The stream was flowing really fast here, this wouldn't be a good place to slip and go down stream. 

 Take a 180 degree turn in the other direction you are faced with this obstacle.  You couldn't swim against this force so we found other ways to go past this.  Unfortunately we were running out of daylight and we turned around just after this major obstacle. 

Hanalei stream from Ryan Chang on Vimeo.

The Subway

The Subway is one of the most sought after back country permits at Zion.  I studied the route both bottom up and top down prior to making an entry into the lottery system.  I was bummed that I didn't win the tickets at first but luckily Katie entered for the day after and won.  Zion only allows 80 people to be on that trail on any given day.

One of the MUST DO's in Zion. 

I made the decision that we needed to leave camp by 8 to finish the hike at an appropriate time.  The whole group joined us besides Baron, Claus, and Grant.  Grant volunteered that he would be able to drop us off and pick us up from the trailhead and we'd leave one car at the trailhead.  

The route we decided to take was the "bottom up" route.  I wasn't sure that everyone would be able to hand line the "top down" way safely and I also didn't want to spend another $60 to rent a dry suit.  

The "bottom up" route is the non-technical way of getting to The Subway.  We started on the Left Fork Trailhead at 8:30 and made our way down to the stream.  The views of the canyon we were utterly jaw dropping for the next 7-8 hours.  I made sure that we were following the route described in the write-ups and made sure everyone was safe and moving at a comfortable pace.  (Thanks Chris for sweeping for the entirety for the hike.) 

Once we hit the bottom of the canyon we made our way up stream.  At first it was boring, but then the features of the stream and rocks started to show.  About an hour or so up we hit a big boulder which looked like it could be climbed.  We toyed around with bouldering for a bit at two places; I'm sure there are way more.  The stream also started to look more interesting with small waterfalls.  We snapped pictures and moved on.  Then we started to hit more and more features along the stream.  At one of the first waterfalls ones we saw, red rock and water just streaming down making for some sick photo opportunities.  There were several more on the way to the subway.  Right before the subway there were two fifteen foot waterfalls streaming down more of that red rock.  We saw a couple of ducks as well.  Just above the falls there was a cut in the earth made by water eroding away at the stream bed.  When we finally reached the subway there was only a couple there.  I thought it would have been way more crowded.  

We walked passed the girl and the guy relaxing and enjoying the view.  The subway was just as amazing if not more amazing than the pictures we saw online.  Right after the subway feature we encountered some pools that were waist deep.  No one wanted to brave the pools except Chris and I.  The pools were really cold but I think a bit warmer than The Narrows.  Chris and I snapped a few pictures and video just passed the pools at a canyon like waterfall.  This was our turn around point.  

We spent maybe forty five minutes getting our fair share of pictures.  There were two big groups that also hiked bottom up and were just as excited as we were when they saw the subway feature.  We made it back out of the trail just after four to meet Grant at the trail head.  

That night we decided to eat out since it was our last night at Zion.  At first we wanted steak but the restaurant (Switchback Steakhouse) we went to was really pricey and the hostesses was really rude.  We decided to eat at another restaurant called Oscar's Cafe, they had some really tasty burgers.  After that we retired back to camp.  

Baron started a fire, he dubbed it the upside down fire.  It uses bigger pieces of wood on the bottom and smaller kindle type of wood at the top. This method of fire making made for hours of fire and warmth.  We stayed out later than usual since we could sleep in the next day.  Christine and Paige played the ukulele while other talked story.   

The next morning we still opted to wake up early and pack up and leave.  We said our goodbyes and started back on the road back home.  On the way back to LA we stopped to grab breakfast in St. George.  We tried a restaurant called The Egg and I.  (It was really good if you are ever are in the area.)  Katie also wanted to stop at the premium outlets in Las Vegas.  She picked up a few things and made our journey back to LA.  Unfortunately we hit that traffic going back into LA.  I guess people go to Vegas to gamble and drive back to LA over the weekend.

The trip to Zion was a huge success.  I really want to go back to the mainland to see what else it has to offer.  Big Sur, Yosemite, John Muir, Pacific Coast Trail, and Yellowstone are just a few that are on my list of to do's. Till then the outer island trips will have to do. 

Photos by Ryan, Paige, Chris, and Katie.

The start of the Left Fork Trail is just passed this sign. 

This sign makes it official, you can die!

This hill is all fine and dandy until you have to hike back up.  Everyone can attest to that. 

The group taking a break to strip some layers of clothes.  It was chilly in the morning but hiking with a lot of layers gets, sweaty. 

Most of the hike looked like this.  Stream crossing with really clear water. 

More stream crossing. 

Cairns marked the trail all the way to our destination. 

Really giant boulders dotted the trail, this was just one of them.  Christine decided to climb a little. 

Going up and over giant boulders was really fun too! 

The first eye popping feature. 

One of my most favorite pictures on the trip was taken by Chris.

This was funny, Katie tried to pull me up.  

The next eye popping feature.  Now it just comes one after the other, I was like a kid that didn't know what to do at Discovery Zone. 

The colors were just unreal.  No other place like it. 

And another one!

We eventually reached The Subway. 

The Subway was a really short feature but was so worth the 4-5 hours upstream. 

Right around the corner there were several cold pools that we didn't want to get wet in. 

Of course Chris and I decided to jump in and see what's a little further.  Check the video to see. 

One last group picture before we leave. 

That night we sat around late enjoying the camp fire under the stars. 

My three season tent got pushed to the limits on this trip with a frozen zipper.  Claus had a 4 season vintage North Face tent. 

Zion National Park The Subway from Ryan Chang on Vimeo.

Angel's Landing

Thursday night to Friday morning we all slept a lot better.  The temperatures were 20 degrees warmer than the night before. 

Friday we planned to do Angel's landing.  The peak stands alone and is a great look out point that stand almost 1,500 ft above the canyon floor.  

We started on the trail at 8:30 and slowly made our ascent up.  The crowd in the morning was pretty mellow but it some what reminded me of Koko Crater back home.  As we get higher the trail switchbacks and is well maintained; most of it is paved!  After an hour of huffing and puffing we reached the point where most people turn around if they are too scared to go on.  Some of us had a fear of heights but we all continued on.  We put strong hikers in between the afraid ones that didn't think were going to make it, making it safer for them.  We coerced our friends up the exposed parts and encouraged them, they were doing well.  From here on the trail is more exposed and you have to maneuver around bottlenecks of people.  Sheer drops to the canyon floor are present, a chain aids your ascent up and sure footing along the ridge is the only thing from you falling to the canyon floor.  Angels Landing is hard to compare to Hawaii hikes because it's so well maintained and not bushy.  In my books it's a bit easier than the Ko'olau Summit Trail because it's well maintained.  

When we reached the top we sat around with maybe 5 other people but, after twenty minutes there we were surrounded by dozens people.  We all took pictures and enjoyed the view for half an hour.  Before leaving, the group took a picture and we headed back the way we came.  

Now that it was later in the morning there were tons of people on the trail.  More bottle necks and more people with just a small water bottle.  Paige and I rushed ahead on the way back to get some head on shots of the group crossing a section of the ridge that looked like a saddle.  Unfortunately we couldn't get any only our group shots because of the hordes of people.  

If you ever decide to do this hike while in Zion I highly suggesting starting early to avoid the crowds.  It's well worth the effort to enjoy the summit by yourself or just with a few other people.  

We made it back to camp around two and some of the group decided to fit in another hike, Shelf Canyon.  I opted to relax and take it easy.  My body was sore and needed to rest to do the hike I've been planning to do tomorrow.  I also had to pick up the backcountry permit to do the hike tomorrow.

While everyone left I got to enjoy some warm afternoon sun and play some trumps with Grant, Shasta, and Christine.  Shelley went to nap, lucky her!  Around five the group returned.  We did some last minute preparation for the hike tomorrow.  Chris was really excited for the hike tomorrow but had to get some neoprene socks before then.  The rest of the group rented again from Zion Adventure Company again. 

We cooked some chili and rice and sat around the camp fire for the rest of the night.  Tomorrow was going to be a long day. 

The peak on the right is Angel's Landing. 

We came from the trail below.

Stopping for a break is Katie, Dan, Baron, and Chris.

The trail switchbacks on and on. 

It keeps going.

The point where most people turn around still gave stunning views of the canyon below. 

Claus handled the trail like a champ with daughter trailing behind. 

The group breaking for a picture. 

The chain aided you along as you skirted along the cliff. 

Almost there.

Then end of the hike is that peak you see people standing on. 

The view unobstructed by people. 

The group up at the top of Angel's Landing.

Next few pics were taken at Shelf Canyon by Katie.  I'm a little jealous I didn't get to go but my legs needed rest. 

The path leads into a canyon that slots up. 

The walls are so close together you could stem up. 

This reminded me of the movie 127 Hours.

Zion National Park Angel's Landing from Ryan Chang on Vimeo.

The Narrows

The next morning the time to meet and to catch the first shuttle was 7 am.  That mean we had to get up at 5:30 to get breakfast and lunch and all of our hiking gear prepared.  Katie quickly left the tent and I stayed in bed for a few more minutes.  I heard the car turn on but tried to sleep a little more.  Unfortunately it was WAY to hard to sleep with it being 26 degrees.  (Let me repeat it was so fucking cold.)  I finally got out of bed and bundled up and tried to get warm.  I sat by the fire for a little while and went to the car to get some clothes.  I noticed that there was ice in the door handle.  Katie was in there and she was just miserable.  I tried to console her a little but she almost had enough of this trip already.  She told me that to tell Baron it's too early and to try and push the time back.  I went to Baron and talked to him a little.  Like a good leader he listened to our concerns and pushed the time back.  He also decided to get some dry pants for the narrows hike but, the adventure company didn't open till 8.  We waited around and tried our best to get ready for the hike.  I had left my Nalgene bottle half full on the table over night.  It was frozen solid!   With a bit of thawing near the fire the ice turned back to liquid. 

Screen shot of how cold it was at 7 in the morning.  

When 8 rolled around we went with the group to grab more stuff for the narrows hike.  One of the workers at the adventure company said that during the early morning temperatures dropped into the teens!  Everyone but Chris rented at least dry pants that day so that they wouldn't get cold trudging through the 40 degree water.  Katie and Claus opted to rent some boots as well to add onto their dry pants rental.  I opted to just stay with what I had because I already had neoprene socks and tabis.

 We all met back at the campsite and drove down to the visitors center around 9 o'clock.  Zion doesn't allow personal vehicles at the trail head so you have to catch a shuttle that stops at every stop in 10-15 minutes.  Our stop was the last stop at Temple of Sinawava.  We got off excited to start hiking The Narrows. 

There was a paved trail all the way to the start of The Narrows hike.  On our way the temperatures seemed to warm up as the morning got underway.  We strapped up and got ready for a group picture at the entrance to The Narrows.  For most of the hike we were wading through the water.  Some of us had walking sticks to help balance when crossing the stream.  The water levels weren't that high but the water was really cold.  All of us were in amazement walking through the canyon.  Some just kept snapping pictures.  Slowly we made our way up the canyon.  There were a lot of features that the water carved out.  Big boulders and ruffles along side the canyon wall.  The colors were in layers, bands of sand that had been compressed and eroded away along the wall.  The contrast between the blue stream and the dark red made for some amazing pictures. 

Around 12 pm we stopped for a break near the streams edge and in direct sunlight.  The section we stopped at was perfect for tubing.  I was the only one dumb enough to blow up my tube and proceed to hop in the frigid water.  I made three runs and after paddling with my hands down the stream, my hands were completely numb.  The numbness was like sticking your hand in an ice chest and leaving it there for a minute or so.  On the second run the pants that I wore under the dry pants started to get wet.  Luckily the sun was out at the break spot so I dried off and tried to get my body heat back in.  After breaking we proceeded up the river for another two hours.  We passed the intersection for Orderville Canyon and continued to a section dubbed "The WallStreet".  This is where you are mostly walking in water.  We went up about half an hour where there were two big boulders.  Most of the group called it a day because it was around 2 o'clock and we had to return the equipment at 7.  Katie and I decided to continue and try to make it to Big Spring.  Unfortunately we couldn't find it after an hour more after the turn around point.  Katie and I tried to rush out of canyon to meet the group but we were too slow.  We met up with the group at the trailhead of The Narrows.  

For the rest of the day we cruised at the campsite and shared a few drinks around the campfire.  

Like I said, there was frost on everything!

The view from our campsite during our first morning in Zion. 

Taking the shuttle to the Temple of Sinawava.

Every so often the doors would open at a stop.  I stuck my head out and snapped a few pictures. 

Grant and Paige on their way to the start of The Narrows. 

The group from L to R: Chris, Baron, Katie, Claus, Dan, Paige, Shelley, Grant, Christine, Marie, and Shasta.

Father and daughter time.  I wish my dad would come hiking with me.  He is by far the most rugged dad I know, he came hiking 8 hours up and down the stream and not one complaint from him.  The group was really impressed how he handled the hikes!  Thanks Claus for all the good times on this trip.

The stream meandered, slowly the walls in the canyon come close. 

The group posing for a shot next to a huge truck sized boulder. 

The group blazing through the stream. 

We zig zagged across the stream numerous times. 

The canyon walls and river rock contrasted each other.  It was picture perfect.

While there was a lot of red in the picture above this one... this one portayed a more dark looking Narrows. 

Eventually the group just waded through the water.  This section was called "Wallstreet"

Near our end point we waded in knee deep water.  Sand ruled the bottom of this stream bed section.

 Katie snapped this picture of me tubing down a section of The Narrows.  This face is the oh I don't care if I have cold water in my pants. 

While Katie and I were exploring up stream Shelley and Shasta enjoyed tubing down the stream in their full dry suits. 

The Narrows from Ryan Chang on Vimeo.